Toyota Land Cruiser Frequently Asked Questions List TLC FAQ v1.2b LAST MODIFICATION 6/5/96 SPECIAL NOTE: This release is basically a stopgap because I won't be able to do more work on it until after I return from Rubithon in late June. Edited by Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) Information shamelessly pilfered from: Das Grosse Toyota LandCruiser Buch Downey Off Road Manufacturing Catalog Specter Off Road Catalog TLC Engine Conversion Kit Instruction Manual (Advance Adapters) Toyota Land Cruiser: 1956-1984 Toyota Trails (TLCA Newsletter) Toyota Truck & LC Owner's Bible Toyota Dealer Parts Microfiche Toyota: A History of the First 50 Years Toyota Repair manuals Various 4x4 Magazines Contributors (Although they may not have realized at the time :) Rory Arms, Paul Bech, Gary Bjork, Drew Eckhardt, Lars Gottberg, Neil Kapperman, Steve Kopito, Willem-Jan Markerink, Andrew Murphy, Park Owens, Marv Spector, Ian Staines, Roy Stockman For the Land Cruiser WWW page, check out: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/tlc/tlc.html Disclaimer ========== Well, here goes. I've decided to bite the bullet and try to set up the framework of a Land Cruiser FAQ. I do not claim to be a Land Cruiser expert-- all I am attempting to do is collect the knowledge that the experts on the list have posted over time into one source. I welcome any suggestions, corrections, or additions to this FAQ. I also welcome "articles" about various projects (disc conversions/tranny swaps etc.) Your name will appear alongside your article. The information in this FAQ is to be used AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am not responsible for any death/dismemberment/grief/increase of libido that any errors or misinformation cause you! Also please note: There are NO spelling mistakes in this document. Anything that looks wrong to you is actually just a Canadian spelling ;). I have decided that I have put too much work into this thing to leave it as "quasi-public domain" Although I can't claim copyright on say, the 1st gear ratio of an H42 transmission, this COLLECTION of information is my intellectual property as is what I believe to be unique tabular lay-out of the information. In any case, you are free to use this information for non-commerical purposes and distribute it as you wish PROVIDED: You do not modify it in any way, you distribute it in complete form (including this disclaimer), and you do not charge any kind of a fee for its distribution. The History of Toyota ===================== Trucks played a pivotal role in the history of the Toyota Motor Company. In most cases, the Land Cruiser was the vehicle that carried the Toyota banner into new markets. However, a complete history of Toyota requires a look at the man whos company provided the capital and inital production facilities necessary for the founding of the Toyota Motor Company. Sakichi Toyoda was born in 1867 in Yamaguchi, Japan. He had dedicated his life to the invention of an automatic textile loom. In 1907, he formed Toyoda's Loom works, a company that by 1930 had grown into the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works (TALW). Although he shared the inventiveness of his father, Kiichiro Toyoda did not share the fascination with looms. Instead Kiichiro dreamed of building automobiles. In March 1930, he began to build a prototype engine in a corner of the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works factory. By January 29, 1934, Kiichiro had made enough progress with his engine design that TALW established an Automobile Department. The first engine, a 3.4l I6 dubbed the Type A was completed in September 1934. The first complete automobile prototype, the Model A1 was completed in May 1935. Due to restrictions on the domestic automobile industry, Kiichiro decided that would be better to focus on the production of trucks. As a result, the first prototype Toyota truck, the Model G1 was completed on August 25, 1935. In July 1936, it was decided that the cars produced by TALW would be marketed under the name "Toyota." The name was chosen because it sounded better than Toyoda, the katakana characters used to represent it were more asthetically pleasing, and consisted of eight strokes, a lucky number. The Toyota Motor Co., Ltd. (TMC) was formed on August 28, 1937. The Koromo Plant was officially opened in November of 1938. This plant would later become known as the Honsha Plant--the site of LandCruiser Production. The first vehicle produced at the new factory was the Model BM truck. The 75hp engine used in this vehicle was to become the first engine in a Land Cruiser. TMC struggled throughout World War II. It was conscripted into making aircraft engines and tried to continue producing trucks with what little raw materials were available. After Japan's surrender in 1945, Toyota was allowed to begin production of trucks to aid in the rebuilding of Japan. By 1947, production had begun on the Model BM truck and the Model SB small truck. In 1950, the U.S. military filed a special procurement order for 1000 4wd vehicles to be used in the Korean War. Toyota responded with a prototype of the Model BJ on August 1, 1951. The vehicle was named the "Toyota Jeep" Fortunately, the right to the "Jeep" name was owned by Willys who forced Toyota to pick another name. On June 24, 1954, the name "Land Cruiser" was chosen. In 1955, 23 Land Cruisers were exported to Saudi Arabia. The vehicles proved to be wildly popular and exports grew steadily On Feb 21, 1956, the first two Land Cruisers were exported to Venezuela. These were quickly followed exports to Burma, Malaysia, and Puerto Rico. Toyota entered the African market by sending Crowns and Land Cruisers to Ethiopia. Because marketing proved difficult with the large number of languages spoken in Africa, Toyota was forced to adopt the sales technique of driving a sample vehicle all over Africa. The U.S.A. was somewhat different in that in 1957, it received two Crowns before any Land Cruisers. However, the Crowns were found to perform poorly at the higher speeds of American Interstates. Toyota was forced to halt passenger car importing in 1960, leaving only the Land Cruiser to bear the company's name in the United States. Toyota did not make the same mistake in Australia. The first vehicles sent there were Land Cruisers. They arrived in July 1959, and were marketed by Theiss Sales as commercial vehicles. Toyota began to market the Model DA60 truck, its first powered by a diesel engine, in March 1957. However, brand loyalty was strong in Japan so Toyota was forced to establish links to Hino Motors, a diesel truck manufacturer. Hino would later provide the B and H series diesel engines used in Land Cruisers. In May, 1959, Toyota do Brasil began Land Cruiser assembly in Brazil. This was the first case of knock-down kits being assembled outside Japan. Land Cruiser assembly started in 1963 in Venezuela, 1970 in Indonesia and Pakistan (although Pakistanni production was terminated in 1986), and 1977 in Kenya, and 1982 in Bangladesh. Toyota's first exports to Europe were to Denmark, in 1964. That was quickly followed by exports to Finland, the Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland, Great Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Greece, and finally, Germany. It was not until 1964 that Toyota came to Canada. The first vehicles imported were the Crown, Land Cruiser, and Publica. The Publica proved to be unsuitable for the Canadian climate and was quickly withdrawn; however, by 1971, Toyota had become the number one import brand in Canada. Throughout the history of Toyota, it was the Land Cruiser that led the way into new export markets and proved Toyota toughness. Introduction ============ Land Cruisers models are identified by an alphanumeric code. The code consists of the engine series designation letter(s) and the frame desgination number separated by a the letter "J." For example a 2 door with short wheel base and a 2F gasoline engine would be a FJ40. There are also auxilliary codes that follow the main model code and give further information about the vehicle. For instance, the code FJ40LV-KCW is the vehicle mentioned above produced between 01/75 and 07/80 with left hand drive, 4 Speed Transmission, Hardtop, Rear "ambulance" doors, and no roll bar produced for the European market. The extra codes are necessary because of the huge number of variations of each vehicle offered world-wide. There were 2500 versions of the 60 series alone. All the North American & most Australian Codes are described later in the FAQ. The only exception to the naming convention is the 1951 BJ. Body Styles =========== All Land Cruiser bodies (Except the Bundera and the 45 Wagon) are made by Araco (Formerly Arakawa), a division of Toyota. Araco also manufactures the interiors for Land Cruisers, Lexuses, and other Toyota cars and trucks. Toyota manufactures the Bundera/LandCruiser II, and Gifu Body manufactured the 45 Wagon. The remainder of the vehicle (except in some cases the engines) is manufactured at Toyota's Honsya plant (Factory code A11) SERIES DESCRIPTION AK-10 Predecessor to the Land Cruiser B-85 Very First Land Cruiser! Flat fenders, round rear wheel wells, vertical front grille 25 Looks more like 40 series except with no turn signals on the fenders round rear wheel wells and no headlight bezel 25 P Pickup version of above 28 Similar to above with a longer wheelbase 28 V Wagon version of above 35 Very similar to a 25 38 Wagon 40 2 Door with removable hard/soft top, folding windshield 41 Same as above 42 Essentially identical to 40 series 43 V Slightly Longer 40. 43 W 2 Door version of the 45 Wagon 44 2 Door even longer wheelbase 40 (40 sized side windows followed by smaller ones 45 C Cab & Chassis L Pick-up with square bed with tie-down loops on sides, removable hard/soft top S Pick-up with rounded bed with bevel on top rim like a 40. Had fixed hardtop until approx 1964 then removable hardtop W 4 door 40 series, permanent top. T VERY long 2 door 40 with 2 sets of 40 style side windows on HT 46 Same as 45T except with 5 speed transmission & upgraded frame 47 V VERY long 2 door with 2 sets of 40 style side windows on HT 47 L Identical to 45 Series except with H series engine 47 C Cab & Chassis 55 Wagon with narrower appearance than 40 series. Front grille looks like < 60 Square bodied wagon with a pair of round headlights 61 Similar to above except with a turbo 62 Square bodied wagon with 2 pairs of rectangular headlights 70 Square body 2 door with non-removable doors/hard top, sloping windshield and fenders that are a cross of a 40 and a 60. 70 LD Light Duty (Called "Bundera" in Australia) - 70 Series with 2L-T diesel or 22R gas engine, lighter axles used in the pickup (with the 8" ring gear), removable hard/soft top, and coil springs. Bundera means "Rock Wallaby" in an aboriginal language 71 Essentially identical to the 70 series. 73 Troop Carrier like 70 series with 2 doors but longer body/wheelbase Permanent steel hard top 73 LD Longer wheelbase version of the 70 LD detailed above 74 Similar to 73 except with turbo engine 75 P Square bodied pickup with removable steel top 75 V Square bodied wagon with 2 doors and 2 windows per side in the rear 75 C Cab & Chassis 80 Current rounded wagon 90 AKA "Challenger" Not really a Land Cruiser, just a re-badged/re-bodied IFS POS 4Runner. MEGA Copy of a Hummer complete with gear reduction hubs, 4WS, Inboard 4 wheel disc brakes, Torsen LSD's _WITH_LOCKS_, adjustable rear tire pressure Availability (Model Year) ------------------------- SERIES AUS CANADA U.S. JAPAN AK-10 ..... ..... ..... 42-? B-85 ..... ..... ..... 51-54 25 ..... NA? 58-59 55-59 28 ..... ..... ..... ..... 40 ??-84 60-84 60-83 60-84 42 81-84 81-84 NA 81-84 43 ..... NA NA ..... 45 L ??-84 63-80% 63-67+ ..... S ..... 63-67? 63-67+ ..... W ..... 63?-68 63-67+ ..... 46 ..... NA NA ..... 47 81-84 NA NA ..... 55 ..... 68-80 68-80 ..... 60 ??-90 80-87 80-87 ..... 61 86-90 NA NA ..... 62 85-90 88-89 88-89 ..... 70 85- 85-87 NA 85-90 LD 85-92 NA NA ..... 73 85-90 NA NA ..... 74 85-90 NA NA 75 P 85- 90?-# NA ..... W 85- NA NA ..... 80 90- 92- 90- ..... +Some 67's were rebadged as '68's %Industrial use only 81-89? #Industrial use only Specifications -------------- OVERALL WHEELBASE TRACK SPRINGS SPR LEN* HANG WID# SERIES LENGTH MM IN FR/RR MM FR RR FR RR FR RR B-85 3835 2285 90 LF LF 25 3838 2285 90 1390/1350 LF LF 40 3680 2285 90 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1070 686 970 42 3680 2285 90 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1070 686 970 43 4038 2430 96 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970 45 L 4760 2950 116 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970 W 4630 2650 104 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970 S 4651 2641 104 1404/1400 LF LF 686 970 47 4760 2950 116 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1265 686 970 55 4637 2700 106 1404/1400 LF LF 1070 1155 686 970 60 4576 2730 108 1485/1470 LF LF 1058 1160 796 1030 62 4576 2730 108 1485/1470 LF LF 1058 1160 796 1030 70 3476 2310 90 1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1156 640 940 LD 3476 2310 90 CO CO 73 1425/1420 LF LF LD CO CO 75 P 4995 2980 1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1156 640 940 W 4885 2980 1415/1400 LF LF 1087 1282 640 940 80 4780 2850 112 1595/1600 CO CO MEGA 200.4 134 CO CO *SPR LEN (Spring Length) is defined as the distance between the centrelines of the front and rear hangers for a spring. #HANG WID is the lateral distance between spring hangers. Stock Curb Weights (lbs) SERIES ENGINE B 3B F 2F 1FZE 1HD-FT 25 3142 40 HT 3470 3792 40 ST 3265 80 4760 MEGA 6284 Engines ======= Gas Engines ----------- Gas Land Cruiser engines are manufactured by Toyota. The F and 2F engines were also used in Toyota Forklifts. The F engine is supposed to be based on the Chevy 225 I-6 "Cast Iron Wonder" and some of the bottom end along with the water pump and several other components are supposed to be interchangeable. The main differences between the F and the 2F are the 2F's larger bore, the F's 2 compression and 2 oil rings versus the 2F's 2 compression and single oil ring and the fact that the F had two oil paths--through the filter or through the engine compared to the 2F where all oil had to travel through the filter before the engine. Diesel Engines -------------- Most of the diesels are made by Hino industries, a sub-contractor for Toyota. Similar engines were used in Hino heavy trucks which are used in Canada, so the drivetrain of Hino trucks may be adaptable. Hino engines similar to the B and 3B are supposed to be used to run the refrigerator units on some refrigerated semi trailers. Some of the B diesels are manufactured by Daihatsu and can be identified by the letter "D" on the timing cover. Most diesels in Japan and Canada are 24V and therefore meet NATO military specs. However, Canadian 1985 (85/10) BJ70's and all Canadian BJ60's are 12V. In Europe, all diesels larger than 4 cylinders are 24V except for in the 80 series which uses a 24/12V Series/Parallel switch to allow 24V starting and 12V while running. Australian diesels are all 12V. The B, H, and 2H were also used in Toyota Forklifts, Dyna and Coaster buses. Other Engine Suppliers ---------------------- Portugese BJ73's use a VM engine made by the Italian company Stabilimenti Meccanici VM S.p.A. South African HJ75's use an Atlantis Diesel Engine licensed from Perkins. The Brazilian made Bandeirantes use a Mercedes diesel engine. Engine Specifications --------------------- Legend FUEL ID - Indirect Injection Diesel DD - Direct Injection Diesel T - Turbo EFIG - Gas Electronic Fuel Injection DISP TORQUE BORExSTROKE COMP LETTER (CC) CYL FUEL HP@RPM FT-LB@RPM VALVES (mm) (mm) RATIO B (GAS) 3386 4 G 85@3600 159@???? 8 OHV 84x102 6.4:1 B 2977 4 ID 80@3600 141@2200 8 OHV 95x105 21:1 2B 3168 4 ID 93@3600? 159@2200 8 OHV 98x105 21:1 3B 3431 4 ID 90@3500 159@2200 8 OHV 102x105 20:1 13B-T 3431 4 TDD 120@3400 210@2000 8 OHV 102x105 17.6:1 15B-T 41xx 4 TDD 150@? 288@1800 8 OHV F (-60) 3878 6 G 105@3200 189@2000 12 OHV 90x102 6.8:1 F (60-) 3878 6 G 125@3600 209@2000 12 OHV 90x102 7.5:1 2F 4230 6 G 135@3600 210@1800 12 OHV 94x102 7.8:1 3F 3955 6 G 155@4000 219@3000 12 OHV 94x95 3F-EFI 3955 6 EFIG 155@4200 220@2200 12 OHV 94x95 8.1:1 1FZ-??? 4477 6 G 138@???? Low compression engine for low grade fuel 1FZ-F 4477 6 G 190@4400 268@2800 24DOHC 100x95 9.0:1 1FZ-FE 4477 6 EFIG 212@4600 275@3000 24DOHC 100x95 9.0:1 H 3576 6 ID 90@3600 151@2200 12 OHV 88x98 21.0:1 H 3576 6 ID 95@3600 159@2200 12 OHV 88x98 19.5:1 2H 3980 6 ID 103@3500 177@2000 12 OHV 91x102 20.7:1 12H-T 3980 6 TID 135@3500 231@2000 12 OHV 91x102 18.6:1 1HD-T 4163 6 TID 165@3600 268@2000 12SOHC 94x100 18.6:1 1HD-FT 4163 6 TID 168@3600 280@2500 24SOHC 94x100 18.6:1 1HZ 4163 6 ID 135@4000 187@2200 12SOHC 94x100 22.7:1 1KZ-T 2982 4 TID 125@3600 218@2000 8 96x103 21.2:1 1KZ-TE 2982 4 EID 130@3600 213@2000 8 96x103 21.2:1 2L 2446 4 ID 72@4000 115@2200 8SOHC 92x92 22.3:1 2L-T 2446 4 TID 86@4000 139@2400 8SOHC 92x92 20.0:1 2L-TII 2446 4 TID 90@4000 159@2400 8SOHC 92x92 21.0:1 1PZ 3469 5 ID 115@4000 170@2600 10SOHC 94x100 22.7:1 22R 2367 4 G 105@4800 136@2800 8SOHC 92x89 9.0:1 22R-E 2367 4 EFIG 114@4600 192@3400 8SOHC 92x89 9.0:1 OTHER STABILIMENTI MECCANICI VM (ITALY) VM66A 2494 5 ID 108@4200 220@1600 10 OHC 88x92 22.0:1 ATLANTIS DIESEL (SOUTH AFRICA) ADE236 3860 DD 80@2800 220@1400 8 OHV 98x127 16.0:1 MERCEDES BENZ (BRAZILIAN BANDEIRANTE) OM314 3784 DD 85@2800 235@1800 8 OHV 97x128 17.0:1 OM364 3972 DD 90@2800 235@1800 8 OHV 98x133 17.3:1 _AVAILABILITY (MODEL YEAR)_ LETTER AUS CANADA U.S. JAPAN B 78-80 NA 74-80 2B 80-82 3B 81-90 81-87 NA 81-90 13B-T ??-90 NA NA 84-90 F 58?-74 58?-74 55-74 2F 75-84 75-87 74-87 3F 84-92 NA NA 3F-EFI 88-92 88-92 88-92 1FZ-FE 93- 93- 93- 2H 81-90 85-87 NA 80-90 12H-T 86-90 NA NA 86-90 1HD-T 90-95 NA NA 91- 1HD-FT 95- 1HZ 90- 95-+ NA 91- 2L 81-84 81-83 83-87 2L-T 86-93 84-85* NA 84-87 2L-T-II 1PZ 90-93 ??91-+ 22R 84-92 81-88# 81-88# *In Toyota Diesel Pickups #In Toyota Pickups +Industrial Use Only ENGINE/CHASSIS COMBINATIONS (PRODUCTION YEAR) ============================================= B(GAS) F 10 ..... ..... BJ 51-53 ..... 25 54-59 55-59 28 ..... 58-59 V ..... 58-59 35 ..... 56-59 B 2B 3B 13B-T F 2F H 2H 40 74-78 ..... ..... ..... 60-74 74-84 ..... ..... V 74-78 ..... ..... ..... 61-74 74-84 ..... ..... 41 ..... 79-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 42 ..... ..... 81-84 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 43 74-81 ..... 81-84 ..... 60-74 74-84 ..... ..... 44 ..... 79-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... V ..... 80-81 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 45 C ..... ..... 81-84 ..... 61-74 74-86 72-80 ..... 45 L ..... ..... 81-84 ..... 61-74 74-85 72-80 ..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... 61-74 74-85 ..... ..... W ..... ..... ..... ..... 60-68 ..... ..... ..... 46 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 47 L ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 80-85 47 C ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 80-84 55 W ..... 79-80 ..... ..... 67-74 74-79 ..... ..... 3B 13B-T 2F 3F-EFI 2H 60 81-89 ..... 80-84 ..... ..... 61 86-89 62 85-89 80-89 3B 13B-T 15B-T 2F 3F-EFI 1FZ-FE 2H 12H-T 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HZ 1PZ 70 84-89 ..... ..... 84-85 85-92 93- ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90- 71 ..... 87-89 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... 93- ... 72 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ... 73 84-89 ..... ..... 84-85 85-93 93- ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90- 74 ..... 87-89 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ... 75 84-89 ..... ..... ..... 85-92 93- 85-89 ..... 90- ...... .... 90- 77 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 90- ...... 93- 90- 78 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... 93- ... 80 ..... ..... ..... ..... 90-92 93- ..... ..... 90- 95- 90- ... MEGA ..... ..... 95- ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ...... .... ... 2L 2L-T 2L-T-II 1KZ-T 1KZ-TE 22R 22R-E 70 LD 84-86 86-90 90- ..... ..... 84-88 88- 71 LD ..... ..... 91-93 ..... ..... ..... ... 72 LD ..... 86-90 90-93 ..... ..... ..... ... 73 LD ..... 88-90 90- ..... ..... ..... 88- 77 LD 90-93 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ... 78 LD ..... ..... 91-93 ..... ..... ..... ... Performance/Fuel Economy ======================== 0-100km/h Fuel Ecomomy (l/100km) BJ40 4SPD 4.11 diff 29.9s 13.0 BJ42 4SPD 4.11 diff 24.4s 13.7 FJ40 4SPD 3.70 diff 18.7s 18.6 FJ60 4SPD 3.70 diff 16.3s 17.4 HJ60 4SPD 3.70 diff 22.7s 12.5 MEGA AUTO 25.3MPG@37MPH Transmissions & Transfer Cases ============================== The H4X transmissions used with the gas engies use a 275mm clutch and have an output shaft that is 1-1/16" in diameter and has 10 splines. H41 transmissions were never offered on US model Cruisers but may have been available in some Canadian 45 series pickups. The transmissions for B diesels use a 1-1/2" longer input shaft with different splines and will not mate to either an F or H series engine. When the four speed was introduced in 1974, the transfer case ratio was raised and new helical cut gears were used that were wider and quieter than the earlier model. Until 1981, parking brake was mounted on the driveline after the transfer cases. In 1981, the new split-case transfer case was introduced. It featured a stronger idler shaft and the parking brake was moved to become part of the rear drum brakes. Transmission & Transfer Case Ratios (All :1) -------------------------------------------- MODEL ENGINE DATES SPDS 1ST 2ND 3RD 4TH 5TH R TFR LW TFR ?FJ25? F 4 5.41 3.12 1.77 1.000 5.44 NONE SPLINES J30 F 69-75 3 2.757 1.691 1.000 3.676 2.313 10 H41 F 4 4.925 2.643 1.519 1.000 4.925 1.992 16 H41? B 75-80 4 5.299 2.843 1.634 1.000 5.299 1.959 16 H42 F,B 73-75 4 3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 1.992 16 75-80 4 3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 1.959 16 81-82 4 3.555 2.292 1.410 1.000 4.271 2.276 19 H55F F,B 83- 5 4.843 2.619 1.516 1.000 0.845 4.843 1.959 19 H150F HZ 5 4.529 2.464 1.490 1.000 0.881 4.313 2.488 H151F FZ,HD 5 4.081 2.294 1.490 1.000 0.881 4.313 2.488 A440F 3 2.488 A442F FZ,HD 4 2.950 1.530 1.000 0.765 2.678 2.488 ???? L, 2L 5 3.928 2.333 1.451 1.000 0.851 4.743 2.276 150R 2L-T 5 4.313 2.330 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 2.295 ???? 2L-T, 1KZ-T 5 3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 2.296 ???? 1KZ-T, 1KZ-TE 5 3.830 2.062 1.436 1.000 0.838 4.220 1.959 Axles ===== Regular Land Cruiser axle housings are similar to a Ford 9" and differential carriers are similar in construction to a Chevy 12bolt. The front and rear differential housings are both offset to the right in all models except some '58-62's which were centred. They have an 9.5" ring gear. The axle shafts are 33mm in diameter (the same as a some Dana 60's) 1960-67 shafts had 10 coarse splines while 68 and later shafts have 30 fine splines. In 1968, the front axle CV joints changed from ball joints to Birfield. Full Floating Axles have smaller shafts because the entire weight of the truck is bourne by the wheel bearings and the shaft itself is not loaded in flexure. Light Duty axle housings are the same as those used in Toyota Pickup trucks. They feature a smaller housing constructed similarly to the heavy duty Land Cruiser. The ring gear is only 8" but the axle shafts are the same size and have the same number of splines as the regular Land Cruiser. All Land Cruisers produced after 1991 use the 8" ring gear in the front and the 9.5" ring gear in the rear. 60/2 Series axles are 70mm wider than 40 series 70 Series axles are 20mm wider than 40 series AXLE CODES ---------- Example: K 08 2 ^ ^^ ^-2 pinions!? | ++---4.11 ring/pinion ratio +------9.5" ring gear First digit: ring gear size G 8" J 9.25" K 9.5" Second, third digits: ring/pinion gear ratio 01 3.30 02 3.36 03 3.545 04 3.556 05 3.70 HD Cruiser 06 3.889 07 3.90 HD Cruiser 08 4.111 HD Cruiser 09 4.222 10 4.375 11 4.444 12 4.625 13 4.79 14 4.875 LD Cruiser 15 5.125 16 5.286 17 5.60 18 5.714 19 5.833 20 6.167 21 6.667 22 6.78 23 6.833 24 7.64 25 4.556 LD Cruiser, Aftermarket HD Cruiser 26 5.571 27 3.364 28 4.30 LD Cruiser 29 4.10 30 3.727 HD Cruiser 31 3.909 32 6.591 or 5.583 33 7.503 or 5.583 34 6.781 or 4.786 35 7.636 or 5.60 36 4.778 37 3.583 38 3.417 4.88 Aftermarket HD Cruiser Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no Code pinions 2 2 open 3 2 LS 4 4 Locking Diff 5 4 LS Production Codes ================ ABBREVIATIONS USED AUS Australia CAN Canada NA North America USA ? :) 5F 5 Speed Manual 4F 4 Speed Manual IV Incomplete Vehicle (Usually Cab/Chassis Only) SOB Swing Out Back Door LUB Lift Up Back Door RB Roll Bar PU Pickup ST Soft Top SRF Low Roof HRF High Roof CODE ENG PRODUCTION NOTES BJ40 LV-KCJK B 3/78-7/80 CAN 4F SOB RB BJ42 LV-KCJK 3B 8/80-10/82 CAN 4F SOB RB LV-MCJK 3B 10/82-10/84 CAN 5F SOB RB RV-KCQ 3B 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F SOB RB RV-MCQ 3B 10/82-10/84 AUS 5F SOB BJ60 LV-KK 3B 8/80-10/81 CAN 4F LG-KK 3B 10/81-10/82 CAN 4F LG-MK 3B 10/82-10/85 CAN 5F BJ70 LV-MRK 3B 11/84-8/86 CAN 5F 12V LX LV-MNK 3B 8/86-7/87 CAN 5F LX RV-MRQ 3B 11/84-1/90 AUS 5F HT BJ73 RV-MRQ 3B 11/84-8/86 AUS 5F HT RV-MRQ 2B 8/86-1/90 AUS 5F HT LX BJ74 RV-PRXQ 13BT 10/85-8/86 AUS AUTO HT RV-MNXQ 13BT 8/86-1/90 AUS 5F HT L RV-MRXQ 13BT 10/85-8/86 AUS 5F HT RV-PNXQ 13BT 8/86-1/90 AUS AUTO HT LX RV-PEXQ 13BT 8/86-8/88 AUS AUTO HT VX FJ40 L-A F 3/69-1/75 NA ST LV-A F 3/69-1/75 NA HT LUB LV-AC F 4/72-1/75 NA HT SOB L-KJA 2F 1/75-2/76 NA ST RB L-KJA 2F 2/76-7/80 USA 4F ST RB L-KJA 2F 8/80-10/81 USA 4F ST RB LV-KCJA 2F 1/75-2/76 NA 4F HT SOB LV-KCJA 2F 2/76-7/80 NA 4F HT SOB RB LV-KCJA 2F 8/80-9/83 USA 4F SOB RB LV-KJA 2F 2/76-7/80 NA 4F HT LV-KCJK 2F 2/76-7/80 CAN 4F HT SOB RB LV-KCJK 2F 8/80-10/81 CAN 4F HT SOB RB LV-KJK 2F 2/76-9/77 CAN 4F ST KJA 2F 8/80-11/81 NA LV-KCJA 2F 8/80-9/83 NA LV-KCJK 2F 8/80-10/81 CAN R-KJC 2F 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F ST R-MJQ 2F 10/82-10/84 AUS 5F ST RV-KQ 2F 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F LUB RV-KCQ 2F 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F SOB RV-MCQ 2F 10/82-10/84 AUS 5F SOB RV-KCQ 2F 8/80-10/84 AUS 4F TROOP SOB FJ45 LP-KK 2F 6/76-7/80 CAN 4F PU R-KJQ 2F 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F PU ST RP-KQ 2F 8/80-10/84 AUS 4F PU RP-KQ3 2F 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F PU IV FJ55 LG F 3/69-1/75 NA LG-KA 2F 1/75-2/76 NA 4F LG-KA 2F 2/76-7/80 USA 4F LG-KK 2F 2/76-7/80 CAN 4F FJ60 LV-KK 2F 8/80-10/81 CAN 4F LG-KA 2F 8/80-8/87 NA 4F 'G' LV-KA 2F 9/86-8/87 USA 4F RG-KQ 2F 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MQ 2F 10/82-11/84 AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MZQ 2F 5/83-11/84 AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G' RV-KCQ 2F 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F SRF SOB RV-MCQ 2F 10/82-11/84 AUS 5F SRF SOB FJ62 LV-PNEA 3F-E 8/87-8/88 USA AUTO LG-PNEA 3F-E 8/87-1/90 USA AUTO 'G' LG-PNEK 3F-E 8/87-1/90 CAN AUTO 'G' RG-MQ 3F 11/84-8/87 AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MZQ 3F 11/84-8/87 AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-PQ 3F 11/84-8/87 AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G' RG-PZQ 3F 11/84-8/87 AUS AUTO HRF LUB 'G' RG-MRCQ 3F 8/87-1/90 AUS 5F SRF SOB RG-MNQ 3F 8/87-1/90 AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-PNQ 3F 8/87-1/90 AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G' RG-MNZQ 3F 8/87-8/88 AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-MEZQ 3F 8/88-1/90 AUS 5F HRF LUB VX RG-PEZQ 3F 8/87-1/90 AUS AUTO HRF LUB VX RV-MCQ 3F 11/84-8/87 AUS 5F SRF SOB RV-PCQ 3F 11/84-10/85 AUS 5F SRF SOB FJ70 RV-MRQ 3F 11/84-1/90 AUS 5F HT FJ73 RV-MRQ 3F 11/84-8/86 AUS 5F HT RV-PRQ 3F 10/85-8/86 AUS AUTO HT RV-MNQ 3F 8/86-1/90 AUS 5F HT LX RV-MNQ 3F 1/90-8/91 AUS 5F HT LX RV-PNQ 3F 8/86-1/90 AUS AUTO HT LX RV-MEQ 3F 8/86-8/88 AUS 5F HT VX RV-PEQ 3F 8/86-1/90 AUS AUTO HT VX FJ75 RV-MRQ 3F 11/84-1/90 AUS 5F HT TROOP RV-MRQ 3F 1/90-8/92 AUS 5F HT TROOP RP-MRQ3 3F 11/84-1/90 AUS 5F PIC IV RP-MRQ3 3F 1/90-8/92 AUS 5F IV RV-MRKQ 1FZFE 8/92- AUS 5F HT TROOP RP-MRKQ3 1FZFE 8/92- AUS 5F IV FJ80 L-GNPNEA 3F-E 1/90-8/92 NA AUTO R-GCMRSQ 3F 1/90-8/92 AUS 5F SOB R-GNMNSQ 3F 1/90-8/92 AUS 5F LUB GXL R-GNPNEQ 3F-E 1/90-8/92 AUS AUTO LUB GXL R-GNPEEQ 3F-E 1/90-8/92 AUS AUTO LUB VX FZJ80 L-GNPEKA 1FZ-FE 8/92- NA AUTO R-GCMRKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92-1/95 AUS 5F SOB R-GNMNKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- AUS 5F LUB GXL R-GNPNKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- AUS AUTO LUB GXL R-GNPEKQ 1FZ-FE 8/92- AUS AUTO LUB VX HJ47 RV-KCQ 2H 8/80-10/84 AUS 4F TROOP SOB RP-KQ 2H 8/80-10/84 AUS 4F PIC RP-KQ3 2H 8/80-10/84 AUS 4F PIC IV HJ60 LG-MK 2H 10/85-8/87 CAN 5F LG-PK 2H 10/85-8/87 CAN AUTO RG-KQ 2H 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MQ 2H 10/82-8/87 AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MNQ 2H 8/87-1/90 AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MRCQ 2H 8/87-1/90 AUS 5F SRF SOB RG-MZQ 2H 5/83-10/85 AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-PQ 2H 11/84-10/85 AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G' RG-PZQ 2H 11/84-8/87 AUS AUTO HRF LUB 'G' RV-KCQ 2H 8/80-10/82 AUS 4F SRF SOB RV-MCQ 2H 10/82-8/87 AUS 5F SRF SOB RV-PCQ 2H 11/84-10/85 AUS AUTO SRF SOB HJ61 RG-MXQ 12HT 10/85-8/87 AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-MZXQ 12HT 10/85-8/87 AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-PXQ 12HT 10/85-8/87 AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G' RG-PZXQ 12HT 10/85-8/87 AUS AUTO HRF LUB 'G' RG-MNXQ 12HT 8/87-1/90 AUS 5F SRF LUB 'G' RG-PNXQ 12HT 8/87-1/90 AUS AUTO SRF LUB 'G' RG-MNZXQ 12HT 8/87-8/88 AUS 5F HRF LUB 'G' RG-MEZXQ 12HT 8/88-1/90 AUS 5F HRF LUB VX RG-PEZXQ 12HT 8/87-1/90 AUS AUTO HRF LUB VX HJ75 RV-MRQ 2H 11/84-1/90 AUS 5F HT TROOP RV-RRQ 2H 11/84-1/90 AUS 5F HT PIC RV-MRQ3 2H 11/84-1/90 AUS 5F HT PIC IV HDJ80 R-GNMNXQ 1HDT 1/90-1/95 AUS 5F LUB GXL R-GNPNXQ 1HDT 1/90-1/95 AUS AUTO LUB GXL R-GNMEXQ 1HDT 1/90-1/95 AUS 5F LUB VX R-GNPEXQ 1HDT 1/90-1/95 AUS AUTO LUB VX R-GNMNWQ 1HDFT 1/95- AUS 5F LUB GXL R-GNPNWQ 1HDFT 1/95- AUS AUTO LUB GXL R-GNPEWQ 1HDFT 1/95- AUS AUTO LUB VX HZJ70 RV-MRQ 1HZ 1/90-1/95 AUS 5F HT HZJ73 RV-MNQ 1HZ 1/90-8/91 AUS 5F HT LX RV-PNQ 1HZ 1/90-8/91 AUS AUTO HT LX HZJ75 RP-MRQ 1HZ 1/90- AUS 5F IV RP-MRQ3 1HZ 1/90- AUS 5F IV HZJ80 R-GCMRSQ 1HZ 1/90- AUS 5F SOB R-GNMNSQ 1HZ 1/90- AUS 5F LUB GXL LJ70 RV-MRXQ 2LT 10/85-8/86 AUS 5F HT BUNDERA RV-MNXQ 2LT 8/86-1/90 AUS 5F HT BUNDERA LX RV-MNXQ 2LT 1/90-8/92 AUS 5F HT BUNDERA LX RV-MEXQ 2LT 8/86-8/88 AUS 5F HT BUNDERA VX PZJ70 RV-MRQ 1PZ 1/90-5/93 AUS 4F HT RV-MNQ 1PZ 1/90-5/93 AUS 5F HT LX RJ70 R-MRQ 22R 11/84-8/88 AUS 5F ST BUNDERA RV-MRQ 22R 11/84-8/86 AUS 5F HT BUNDERA RV-MNQ 22R 8/86-1/90 AUS 5F HT BUNDERA LX RV-MNQ 22R 1/90-8/91 AUS 5F HT BUNDERA LX RV-MEQ 22R 11/84-8/86 AUS 5F HT BUNDERA VX Body Colour Codes ================= CODE COLOUR NAME YEARS OFFERED (ONLY 79+ KNOWN) 012 Cygnus White 113 Health Grey 309 Freeborn Red 79-84 414 Buffalo Brown 415 Pueblo Brown 416 Dune Beige 464 Beige 474 Dark Copper 4G8 Light Beige Irrid. 611 Dark Green 621 Rustic Green (Dark) 622 Nebula Green 653 Olive Green 681 Green 808 Horizontal Blue 822 Royal Blue 854 Blue (sky blue) 857 Nordic Blue/Feel Like Blue (dark blue) Decoding your ID plates ======================= I'll describe the various ID plate types with their usual location in brackets. Keep in mind, I've only seen North American plates so yours may be quite different. Pre-1974 ID Plate (Fender) +-----------------------------------------+ |O T O Y O T A O| | MODEL FJ40L | | ___ ENGINE MODEL F | | |tep| NUMBER OF CYLINDERS 6 | | ~~~ BORE 3.54 in | | STROKE 4.00 in | | PISTON DISPLACEMENT 237 cu.in | | NO. FJ40-000000 | |O TOYOTA MOTOR CO., LTD. O| +-----------------------------------------+ 1974+ FJ55 (FENDER) +-----------------------------------------+ |O T O Y O T A O| | MODEL FJ55LG-KK | | ENGINE 2F 4230cc/257.9cu.in | | FRAME No. FJ55-86909 | | COLOR/TRIM | | TRANS/AXLE | | PLANT/G.V.W. MADE | | JAPANESE... IN | |O tep TOYOTA MOTOR CO., LTD. JAPAN O| +-----------------------------------------+ 40 Series Specific Info ======================= Production Timeline (US/Canada) ------------------------------- MODEL YEAR ENG TRANSMISSION TRANSFER OTHER 1960 F 3-on the tree 2.313:1 Start of prodution Small round FR turn signals Single brake master cyl resevoir 1963 3 on the floor (Option) 1964 Flip-up roof vent removed 1965 Larger side windows and corner windows added 1968 30 fine spline axles replace 10 coarse splines Birfield joints replace ball joints in FR Siamese centre exhaust ports replaced One piece manifold gasket added Cable throttle linkage replaces rod Padded Dash fs Vin plate on door pillars 1969 "Improved" steering centre arm Small Rectangular FR turn signals Replaceable element oil filter replaced with cartridge type (03/69) 1970 Dual resevoir master cyl Dual horns 1971 Power Brakes (07/70) 1972 3 on the floor STD Smog pump appears (09/72) 1973 Separate model for Calif introduced (09/73) EGR system added (09/73) Saftey catch added on hood Ignition switch moved to steering column Factory AM radio Stronger steering box 1974 2F 4 SPD 1.999:1 Larger universal joints & flanges Rectangular RR brake lights/turn signals RR lower shock bolt moves from axle to U- bolt bracket Clutch changed from coil spring type to diaphragm (08/74) Longest production run of any LC (9/73- 12/74) 1975 1.959:1 Thicker side doors Ambulance doors replace lift/tailgate LG Square FR Turn Signals/side markers Wipers move to bottom of windshield Muffler moved from between frame rails to under rear tub 1976 FR disk brakes Larger brifields Front outer axle shafts changed from 10 coarse splines to 30 fine splines Front spindles and bearings enlarged 1977 Tubular spare tire mount (09/76) Pop-out rear windows (08/76) 1978 2F,B Diesel comes to Canada Fine spline pinion flange (1/78) 1979 3.73:1 Diff becomes standard on FJ 22 gal under-floor fuel tank Improved exhaust manifold Power steering Air conditioning Reclining Seats Catalytic converter Fewer, larger body mounts Squared off headlight bezel 1981 2F,3B 2.276 3B comes to Canada Larger shackles, hangers & frame gussets Split case transfer case New RR brakes with 11.8" drums and single self-adjusting wheel cylinder (8/80) Parking brake moved from rear of TFR to rear drums Warn front hubs replaced with stainless steel Aisin units Front outer axle shafts shortened Rear heater moves under center console "Shield" shaped steering wheel centre Locking "Pocket" Chrome window weather stripping replaced with rubber 1983 5SPD 1.959 Dash re-designed & includes digital clock Chrome outer door felt replaced with rubber 1984 Production CEASES! :( Although production of the 40 Series Land Cruiser stopped in 1984, there is still a _COPY_ in production. It is manufactured in Brazil and is called a Bandeirante. It features a body/frame which is a copy of a Land Cruiser and is powered by a Mercedes diesel motor. 55 Series Specific Info ======================= Many of the changes on the 40 series timeline also apply to 55 series. 80 Series Specific Info ======================= Full time 4wd ------------- All 80 series Cruisers sold in North America and Europe are full time 4wd. In Africa and Australia, a part-time system is still available. 80's produced between '90-'91 have an open center differential which is lockable in 4HI and automatically locked in 4LO. From '92 on, vehicles with ABS had a viscous coupling that sent a maximum of 30% torque the non-slipping axle. The differential is lockable in 4HI and automatically locked in 4LO. Locking Differentials --------------------- Locking differentials were available as options in all 80 series. From 94 on, they were standard in Canada. The operation of the lockers is very elegant. When the differential lock dial is turned to the "Locked" position, it switches on a small electrical servo. The servo pushes on a dog clutch which is meshed with the splines on the axle shaft. The dog clutch slides along the axle shaft and engages on the side of the differential carrier. The axle is then completely locked. They were offered from the procuction date 8/92 onwards. Buying a Land Cruiser ===================== NOTE: This article is biased towards 40 series Land Cruisers, although it can be applied any model. Also, parts of this may sound a little like a sermon. This is because for me Land Cruiser ownership goes beyond possesing a vehicle and well into the realm of the occult. Are YOU willing to sacrifice you life for your Land Cruiser? So you want to buy a Land Cruiser. First, some words of warning. If you're looking at a 40 series, the vehicle will be at least 11 years old. It was built as an offroad vehicle and as a result has probably taken alot more of a beating than a car of a similar vintage. It will definitely require more upkeep than a new vehicle. With all Land Cruisers, newer is definitely better. Unlike the Jeeps whose "quality" varied widely from year to year until Chysler "neutered" them all and Land Rovers where some Series are shunned because their headlights are in the wrong place, Toyota was continually improving the Land Cruiser. Check the production timelines earlier in the FAQ to determine which features you can live without and hence how old you're willing to go. The only exception to this rule is if you're living under a fascist regime such as Kalifornia where ancient frames are prized for their smog exempt status. Usually long before someone decides to sell a Cruiser, they decide that they should stop pouring money into it. Therefore, shortly after you purchase your truck you can expect to have to dump a whole lot of money into it to fix little things the previous owner couldn't be bothered to do. This can be VERY discouraging. Don't worry. Once you get your truck into a roadworthy state, it will remain there for quite some time. When I first got my truck, the fuel gauge didn't work, most of the knobs were missing, the headlights had a nasty habit of turning off instead of switching to high-beam, none of the interior or signal lights worked, the u-bolt plates were cracked, the shackle pins were about to rip out of the shackle plates, the rear tub was basically gone, along with the bottom 2" of the hard top and rear doors. Older Land Cruisers (Anything other than a 60 or 80) make lousy daily drivers. They're loud, they suffer from a relatively harsh ride and vague-on road handling, and the gas ones get lousy fuel economy. Thanks to brick-like aerodynamics, side-winds quickly become tail-winds. You don't want to commute in an FJ40. Anyways, that said, there are some requirements that I believe a Land Cruiser owner should meet. They need to have a steady income. I bought my Cruiser while I was in university and wound up having to take a couple of years off to work to be able to fix it up. If you're a starving student, you're probably better off with a mini-truck. Parts are cheaper, and there's a whole lot more of them so they're more "disposable" If you've got a significant other, your relationship has to be up to the stresses imposed by the new arrival. It took a long time for my girlfriend to adjust to being a "Land Cruiser widow" If a Land Cruiser is brought into a weak relationship, there's always the chance you won't get to keep the house--then you'd be without a garage to work in. Actually, a garage is pretty much required. Lying out in the street is hazardous and people tend to walk off with tools they find lying on the sidewalk. I also firmly believe that you should do EVERYTHING on your Cruiser AT LEAST ONCE. If you have a professional mechanic attend to all you maintenance, you'll be out of luck when something goes wrong miles from the nearest gas station So you've warned anyone that cares about you that you'll never see them again, and their only contact with you will be standing in the garage yelling at the underside of your truck. You're mentally prepared to become the caretaker of a disappearing breed. Time to go shopping. You should start scanning the local classified ads for a couple of months before you actually begin to shop in earnest. That way, you can begin to check out the local price-structure. In certain parts of the U.S. and Eastern Canada, you may only see one Cruiser a week, if that. Once you learn that the most ancient truck costs more money than you have, you're ready to start making calls. When you finally locate a truck, it's time to go for a look. The things you should watch for can be grouped into several categories. Engine ------ I'm not a fan of gas truck engines, so I can't offer too much help here. I've heard that the intake manifold tends to crack if the truck has been overheated. In a diesel, start by checking for coolant leaks from the hoses, water pump, and radiator. Next check for oil leaks from around the pushrod inspection plate that the blow-by tube comes from, the gasket between the oil pan and the block, and the vaccum pump if so equipped. When the engine is fired up, watch how quickly the oil pressure builds. If the idle is high (the engine feels smooth instead of causing the whole truck to shake) There's probably either a hole in the diaphragm or the vaccum lines that go to it. Both are relatively cheap and easy to replace provided you buy Nippondenso and not Toyota parts. It is normal for a cold diesel to blow a little white smoke at start-up. Black smoke usually means that the injectors need service, white smoke indicates over-injection of diesel (probably due to a perforated diaphragm), and blue smoke shows that oil heavier than diesel is burning (Ohh ohh!) When the truck is running, check for excessive exhaust coming out of the blow-by tube. The amount of blow-by will indicate the amount of wear in the engine. Electrical ---------- In both gas and diesel Cruisers, check the alternator for excessive play. A brand new onw is worth a small fortune. Rebuilt 12V ones are difficult to find and 24V ones are virtually impossible. If you find that there are accessories (radio etc. attached to only one battery of a 24V diesel, you can expect to replace the battery shortly. Transmission/transfer --------------------- Check for leaks in all the gaskets and seals. Chances are, if a seal is leaking, the bearing behind it is shot. Ask the owner what kind of lubricant they're using. Synthetic gear oil will often manage to seep past a seal that's good enough for regular oil. Check for lateral play in the output yokes from the transfer case. Movement intdicates bearings that are in need of replacement. If a 40 series has been lifted more than 2", check to make sure that the notch in the skid plate the front drive shaft passes through has been enlarged. Otherwise, the rearmost yoke on the front driveshaft will bang on the plate causing the bearings in the transfer case to fail. With the truck parked on a level surface, take out the transmission fill plug. If gear oil pours out of the plug, the seal between the transfer case and transmission is probably shot. This is a cheap part, but replacing it pretty much requires pulling the transfer and transmission. A leak from the rear output flange of the transfer usually results in destroyed parking brake shoes in pre-1981 transfer cases. Driveshafts ----------- Check for play in the universal joints. Although a worn joint is cheap to fix, if the truck has been driven with the excessive vibration of a failed joint for any length of time, the transfer case and pinion bearings can suffer. Dents in the shafts can also cause vibrations and premature failure. Check that the univeral joints and slip-joints have been greased, but NOT just prior to your arrival. (There should be SOME dirt stuck to any traces of grease on the zerk-fittings or around the joints) Rear Axle --------- Check the pinion flange for excessive play. Usually slop here will result in an a destroyed ring and pinion. Pull off the drums and check for any signs of oil leaking from the seals at the ends of the axle tubes. Seized adjustors are an indicator of an owner that didn't properly maintain their vehicle. It is rare for a Cruiser to experience wheel bearing failure unless they've REALLY been abused. Front axle ---------- The above rules for checking the pinion bearings apply along with some potential problems for the steering knuckles. Check that there is a thin coating of grease covering the knuckle balls from top to bottom. If there is excessive crud on the knuckles, the seals are probably shot. If the balls are dry, they've been run improperly lubricated for quite a while and at least the upper knuckle bearings will be destroyed. The age-old test of rocking the wheel back and forth to test for play can be used to check the knuckle-bearings as they are far more likely to go than the wheel bearings. Steering -------- In manual steering Cruisers, check for gear oil in the steering box by removing the breather vent. If there is none, the pitman-arm seal has failed and the bearings are probably almost gone. If there is grease in the steering box, the seal has failed, and the owner has at least tried to extend the life of the steering box. It may be salvagable, but pulling the pitman arm to replace the seal is very, very difficult. Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth through a 45 degree arc while you inxpect the steering box and centre arm (on 40's-55's) The centre arm should rotate with no sign of "wobbling" If the steering tends to "stay where it's left" while driving rather than returning to centre, the seller has probably cranked up the centre arm to try to hide slop. Replacing worn tie-rod ends is relatively easy, but ensure that there's only play in the ball joint and not in the threads between the rod and the end. This will require replacing the rods themselves. Body ---- This is probably where you'll find the greatest variance in Land Crusiers. Some trucks are pristine and have been hermetically sealed in their garages all winter, whereas some have been used to launch boats in the ocean. The former will have a body. The latter won't. The problem areas for 40 series are: (probable order of occurence) -along the seam between the sides of the body and the tops of the fenders in the rear -under the back doors -the "box section" that runs under the door sills -the lower edges of all doors -on the fenders around the turn signals -on the fenders where the support brackets from the frame attach -along the sill that runs down in front of the doors -the windshield frame under the rubber gasket -the lower edge of the hard top and the steel drain sill under the fibreglass The problem areas for the 60's and 70's are -the lip around the fender wells -the lower edges of all the doors -the rear quarter panels -under the rubber gasket around the windshield -under the mud flaps Drivetrain Swaps ================ Non-Toyota Equipment -------------------- There is really no limit as to the complexity of swaps you can attempt with a Land Cruiser. The most common modifactions are swapping engines and transmissions. Let me begin by saying that I am not a big fan of putting non-Toyota equipment into Land Cruisers. I only decided to write this section because I got tired of people asking me about swaps and not being able to provide any answers. This section is incomplete and will probably remain that way for quite some time until fans of the various engines supply me with more info. Also, because I do not have first hand experience with anything in this section, the chances of me makin errors is greater. If you have a functioning 2F in your truck, I would leave well-enough alone. The engine is VERY heavy duty, makes good low-end torque, will never overheat provided your cooling system is in good shape. An older F is potentially a better candidate to be removed and replaced with a more modern setup. It should be noted that once you pull the F series motor from your truck, it is no longer a FJ40/55/60. I prefer the designation of V8J40. I will talk about engine swaps retaining a Toyota transmission, transmission swaps retaining a Toyota engine, swaping in a new engine and transmission simultaneously, and finally, I'll touch on transfer case and axle swaps. Diesel Engine Swaps ------------------- I'm starting here because to me this is the swap that makes the most sense for a rock-crawling machine and is probably the least explored. As you'll figure out shortly, I'm pretty opinionated on this one and I welcome anyone to dispute my views. I believe that diesel engines are superior to gas ones for offroad use for many reasons. They tend to make usable torque at much lower engine speed than gas engines. This means you don't need nearly as low a crawl gear. They also feature a much flatter torque curve. There is no ignition system to fail because of moisture. They are not as affected by altitude, in fact, turbocharged diesels are virtually immune to altitude. In most cases, even though they have all the advantages of a fuel injected engine, such as the ability to run at extreme angles, they rely on mechanical injection which is considerably simpler than electonic injection. Diesel engines also tend to get much better fuel economy and greater cruising range than gas engines of similar displacement. There are two commonly available engines that are suitable for swapping into Land Cruisers. The most easily obtained is the GM 6.2l diesel. It was offered in Chev/GMC Pickups, Suburbans, and full-size Tahoes. A conversion kit is available from Mark's Adapters in Australia to mate a GM diesel to a Land Cruiser 4 speed manual or automatic transmission. The GM V8 weighs approximately the same as the 2F(?) A rarer engine that I see as being a better match to a Land Cruiser is a Cummins B3.9 litre turbo diesel. This engine makes 120hp and xxx ft-lbs of torque. It was used in Ford E350 cube vans. Although a conversion kit is not readily available, I have heard of a local shop performing this conversion. Further investigation is definitely warranted. I think the Cummins B5.9, as used in Dodge Ram is definitely too heavy to put dinto a 40 series, and is probably too heavy for a 55/60/80 series. Cummins Engine Specs -------------------- DISP TORQUE DRY WT LENGTH HEIGHT MODEL (CC) CYL FUEL BHP FT-LB (LBS) (IN) (IN) 4BT3.9 39xx 4 TID 105 260 705 30.1 35.6 4BTA3.9 39xx 4 TIDA 120 302 725 30.1 35.6 6BT5.9 59xx 6 TID 160 400 880 39.6 36.8 6BTA5.9 59xx 6 TIDA 180 451 905 40.7 36.8 Diesel GM Specs --------------- YEARS DISP STOCK TORQUE COMP MODEL AVAIL (CC) CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO 5.7L 57xx V8 ID ..... ...... ...... 6.2L -94 62xx V8 ID 150 250@2500 ...... 6.5L 94- 65xx V8 ID 170 290@2000 ...... 6.5LT 94- 65xx V8 TID 190 385@1700 ...... FUEL ID - Indirect Injection Diesel DD - Direct Injection Diesel T - Turbo A - Aftercooled (erroniously called Intercooled by most) Gas Engine Conversions ---------------------- Ok, you've put up with my compression-ignitionist rantings for a while and have made it into the section that interests most people. There are some advantages to replacing your F series motor with a newer V8. The V8 weighs 250lb less than the F, which leads to a big improvement in your power to weight ratio. Because the newer motor is a little more effecient, and also because of the weight savings, you will get improved fuel economy. The engine that is most commonly swapped into a Land Cruiser is the venerable Chev 350. Other conversions, in approximate decreasing order of quantity are Chev 307, 383, 305, 400, 327, Ford 302/5.0l, Chev 454, Pontiac 455, Chev 4.3l V6. Swapping a Chev 235 I6 into a Cruiser is pointless because it is basically identical to an F. The Chev 292 may be a worthwhile swap for those who want that "authentic straight-six feel" Unfortunately, this engine is quite fuel hungry like the 2F and parts aren't nearly as common as for the 350. Even though distributor placement at the front of Ford engines is probably better than the rear placement of Chev small block distributors, and the Ford 302 weighs 80lb. less than a 350, Chev engines are probably used ten times more frequently. The big reason is parts availability. While ford was wandering around in Windsor and Cleveland, the 350 changed very little over the years. For that reason, a plain 350 is probably the easiest choice for an engine conversion. There are a variety of conversion kits available and the engine can be found in both carburated and fuel injected forms. For those looking for more low-end torque, a 383 is probably the best choice. A 383 is a 350 that's been bored .030 over and uses a 400 crank and 350 connecting rods. A 383 is superior to a 400 because the bore of the 400 is too large. There's no space left between the cylinders for water jackets so cooling is compromised. There are only a couple of reasons for putting a motor bigger than a 383 or even building a high horsepower 350. They are if you intend to drive your truck in mud or sand, or if you never quite managed to get that adolescent desire to try to peel your tires off your rims out of your system. On the other side of the coin, the 4.3l Chev 6 is probably a little too small for even a 40 series. Key engine design features to keep in mind are the bore and stroke. Engines with a larger bore than stroke (oversquare) are better suited to high-RPM operation, while engines with a larger stroke than bore are better for lugging down at low RPMs. A longer stroke also allows for a lower compression ratio and lower octane fuel. Once you have decided which engine you want to use, the next step is to choose an adapter type. Depending on the engine you have selected, you can either use a bellhousing from Advance Adapters, a Ranger torque splitter, or a Mark's Adapter. In order to use an Advance Adapter bellhousing, the flywheel from the engine manufacturer must be used. In the case of small block engines, the manufacturer's heavier truck type flywheel is required and is advantageous because it will allow for smoother operation of the engine at lower revs. The advantage of using an Advance Adapter bellhousing is the low cost of the adapter itself. This savings leads to higher expenses elsewhere though. Because the Advance Adapter bellhousing is approximately the same thickness as the stock Toyota one, the engine, transmission, and transfercase will have to be shifted forward to all sufficient firewall clearance. The movement of the transfercase will require modified driveshafts. The use of the Advance Adapter bellhousing will also require a custom clutch only offered by Advance Adapters. It's probably best not to use a clutch that is not univerally available. The use of a Ranger Torque Splitter provides several advantages. Foremost, you get a 27% overdrive for lower revs on the highway. You can use a stock Chev/Ford bellhousing and clutch. The Torque splitter functions as an adapter. it can be ordered with Chev or Ford bolt and inputshaft patterns on the front and Toyota input shaft patterns on the back. Finally, the 7-8" of extra thickness of the Ranger means that driveshaft modifications are not required. The Ranger is said to put the fan a little closer to the radiator than ideal though. The third option is the Mark's adapter. Their kit consists of a bellhousing and flywheel that are 3-1/2" deeper than stock. The extra depth places the engine perfectly with no driveshaft modifications. The extra thick flywheel also provides extra damping to allow for smoothly lugging down the revs in the rocks. GM Engine specs ----------------- YEARS DISP STOCK TORQUE COMP MODEL AVAIL (CC) CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO 231 B ..... .... V6 G ..... ........ ..... 252 B ..... .... V6 G ..... ........ ..... 235 C ..... .... I6 G 120-150 ........ ..... 250 CPOB ..... .... I6 G ..... ........ ..... 262 75-76 .... I6 G 110 ........ 8.5:1 265 55-57 .... V6 G 162-225 ........ 8.0:1 265 C 94- 4343 V6 G 163 ........ ..... 265 C(HO) 94- 4343 V6 G 200 ........ ..... 267 C 79-81 .... V6 G 115-125 ........ ..... 283 C 57-67 .... V8 G 135-230 ........ 8.5:1-11.0:1 283FI 292 C ..... .... I6 G ....... ........ ..... 302 C 67-69 .... V8 G 290 ........ 11.0:1 305 C 76-94 .... V8 G 125-230 ........ 8.5-9.0 307 C 68-73 .... V8 G 115-195 240@2000 8.5-9.0 327 C 62-69 .... V8 G 150-235 ........ 8.8-11.3 327FI C .... V8 EFI-G 370 350 C 67- .... V8 G 145-300 300@2000 8.5-11.0 350 C ..... .... V8 EFI-G ....... ........ ....... 383 C NEVER .... V8 G ....... ........ ....... 400 C 70-80 .... V8 G 150-180 ........ 8.5-9.0 454 C ..... .... V8 G ....... ........ ....... 455 P ..... .... V8 G ....... ........ ....... 500 V ..... .... V8 G ....... ........ ....... MODEL BORE STROKE WEIGHT LENGTH HEIGHT (IN) (IN) (LBS) (IN) (IN) 235 C 3.56 3.96 262 C 3.671 3.10 ...... ...... ...... 265 C 3.730 3.00 550 25 26-1/2 267 C 3.500 3.48 ...... ...... ...... 283 C 3.875 3.00 550 25 26-1/2 302 C 4.000 3.00 550 25 26-1/2 305 C 3.736 3.48 ...... ...... ...... 307 C 3.875 3.25 550 25 26-1/2 327 C 4.000 3.25 ...... ...... ...... 350 C 4.000 3.48 550 25 26-1/2 400 C 4.125 3.75 550 25 26-1/2 B - Buick C - Chev O - Oldsmobile P - Pontiac V - Cadillac Ford Engine Specs ----------------- YEARS DISP STOCK TORQUE COMP MODEL AVAIL (CC) CYL FUEL HP FT-LB RATIO 260 V8 G 164@4400 258@2200 8.8:1 289 64- V8 G 200-271 282-312 9.3:1 300 4916 I6 G -150 ..... ..... 302 68- 4948 V8 G 210-235 295-318 8.5:1 302 4948 V8 EFI-G ..... ..... ..... 351W 69- .... V8 ..... 250-300 355-380 8.6:1 351C .... V8 ..... ..... ..... ..... 351M .... V8 ..... ..... ..... ..... 460 .... V8 EFI-G 250 355.. ..... MODEL BORE STROKE WEIGHT LENGTH HEIGHT (IN) (IN) (LBS) (IN) (IN) 260 3.8 2.87 289 4 2.87 302 4 3.0 425 351W 4 3.5 510 351C 550 351M 550 400M 550 460 Transmission Swaps ------------------ The three domestic transmissions most commonly swapped into a Land Cruiser are the SM420 (used in Chev trucks until 1969) SM465 (used in Chev trucks from 1969- 1992) and NV4500 (used in GM and Dodge trucks from 1992-) MODEL MAKER OFFERED IN DATES SPD 1ST 2ND 3RD 4TH 5TH R SM420 Muncie GM Trucks 47-67 4 7.05 3.57S 1.70S 1.00S 7.05 SM465 Muncie GM Trucks 68-92? 4 6.54 3.58S 1.70S 1.00S 6.09 NV4500 New GM Trucks 92-94 5 6.34S 3.44S 1.71S 1.00S 0.73S 6.34 Vent- Dodge Trucks 92- 5 5.61S 3.04S 1.67S 1.00S 0.74S 5.61S ure gear GM Trucks 94- 5 5.61S 3.04S 1.67S 1.00S 0.74S 5.61S MODEL LENGTH BORE (IN) (IN) SM420 10.5 4.686 SM465 12.0 5.125 NV4500 12.0 Legend S following a gear ratio indicated synchronized The SM420 is probably the most popular transmission swap for a LC because of its extremely low first gear. It also has the advantage of being virtually a direct bolt-up to a three Toyota 3 speed bellhousing. All that is required is some minor drilling, a pilot bearing adapter, and a throwout bearing sleave, and an adapter and spud shaft to go between the transmission and transfer case. The biggest disadvantage with the SM420 is parts availability. Because the transmission hasn't been made in almost 30 years, many of the parts have been discontinued. Adapting the transmission to a truck that formerly had a 4 speed transmission is also a bit more involved, requiring either an adapter bellhousing or a modified 3 speed bellhousing to be fitted. The bolt pattern and bore of the SM465 is different so it will not bolt up to either the 3 speed or 4 speed bellhousing. Although it has a higher first gear ratio, this transmission definitely a better than the swap for those removing a Toyota 4 speed because the parts will be readily available from your local GM dealer. The SM465 is also somewhat beefier than the SM420. The NV4500 is probably the ultimate domestic transmission. It has both granny low and overdrive in a package that is approximately the same length as an SM420. It is built to handle high horsepower and torque so the internals are very strong. The big drawback for this transmission is that because it is so new, it is very rare in junkyards. It is also extremely popular which drives the price up. The early GM unit is the hardest to find. Probably the ultimate setup is the Early GM/Late GM and Dodge hybrid which gives you the low first gear of the early GM unit combined with the better third gear ratio and synchronized reverse of the Late GM/Dodge transmission. Of course, all the above mentioned transmission swap will require driveshaft length changes. If you swap a domestic transmission in along with a domestic engine, matters are simplified. You just have to find the domestic bellhousing that will fit your engine and has the correct bore for your desired transmission. Transfer Case/Axle Swaps ------------------------ Swapping a non-Land Cruiser transfer case into your truck is a difficult proposition. This is due to the fact that all but the very early Land Cruiser axles have both differentials offset to the passenger's side. Virtually all domestic vehicles have the front differential offset to the driver's or passenger's side while the rear differential is centred. If you use a domestic transfer case with Land Cruiser axles, you will wind up with a two-plane driveshaft angle. Apparently, the axle housing can be reversed to decrease the angle, but this is still a very unadvisable setup. If a domestic transfer case is required, the axles should be replaced as well. Dana 60s and up are the only axles that are comparable/superior in strength to the stock Land Cruiser axles. Reverse-cut Dana 60s have the pinion located above the centreline of the ring gear and will result in somewhat improved driveshaft angles in trucks with a great deal of lift. Maintenance/Modifications ========================= Aluminum Tubs - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ------------------------------------------------ I've got an Aluminum tub on my Cruiser and I love it. It sure beats having things fall out the rust holes in the back and getting a spray of water on you from where the rear wheel wells used to be :) There are two schools of thought when it comes to tubs: Retain the steel sills (my style) Description/Materials: The steel sills around the doors and along the top of the tub were retained (the remainder of the sheet metal is cut away with an air nibbler) Mine goes from the firewall back. My tub is all 1/8" Aluminum plate with bits of 6061-T6 1/8" wall structural (round corner) square tubing/channel for body mounts and gas tank strap mounts. Cost: Mine cost me CA$2400 (US$1700+/-) but that included a new fuel tank & sender, and I also got a "better shape than mine" hard top thrown in for free (a one-time lucky break for me) Keep in mind that my tub was for the body style with the gas tank under the floor and required quite a bit of bending on a hydraulic brake to make the right shape. Advantages: + Doors and hard top fit properly + Slightly more body rigidity + Sides are held on with pop rivets + a few tack welds and can be easily removed/replaced if damaged Disadvantages: - Steel can continue to rust along the edges until pop rivets securing aluminum to steel pull out (requires finding some steel sqaure tubing with the same OD as the sill's ID shoving it in and re-riveting--I'm probably going to have to do this soon on the driver's side at least) - not a "bolt-on" installation - requires a reasonably skilled sheet metal worker to cut old steel away nicely - not widely available. Most tubs in this style are home made/made by local Cruiser gurus and are therefore harder to find (Mine was built by a Cruiser fanatic that used to make aluminum boats for a living. All aluminum (style manufactured in Kelowna--Aqualu/Land Cruiser Solutions) Description/Materials: One note: The tubs I'm talking about is made by a Kelowna, B.C. company called Aqualu Industries. These are sold east of the Mississippi by Land Cruisr Solutions. Anyways, on with the description: The entire tub behind the "drip rail" that runs down in front of the door hinges is hacked away. The sills are replaced with 6061-T6 1/8" round-edge... which leads to the door/hard top fit problems described by Gary Bjork. Here's a quickie ascii illustration of the cross-section of the lower part of the door and sill to show you: Stock doors/sills Kelowna style body | | | | |Door| | | | __/ | __/ | |O || | |O +------+ Legend |_|O / |__ |_|O | | O = Rubber Seal / | | | / Sill | | | |______| |______| | | | | As you can (hopefully) see, the stock doors fit flush into the body whereas the "Kelowna Style" stick out by an amount equivalent to the width of the bottom edge of the door (about 1/2"?) The hard top also sticks out by this by the width of the bottom edge. The tub is made from material thinner than 1/8" (3/32", I think) and is available with both checker and smooth sides. If you only run a soft top and soft doors, the fit problems I described above will not really be noticable. There is now a version of the tub available with "factory-style" sills. It costs extra though. Cost: NO SILLS SILLS EARLY-78 CA$1955 (~US$1396) CA$2475 (~US$1768) 79-84 CA$2346 (~US$1675) CA$2865 (~US$2046) Advantages: + minimal cutting - true bolt-on installation + don't have to worry about sills rotting away + if your're truck has been rolled/crashed you instantly get a straight tub! + much easier to move to a newer/better Cruiser if you buy one at a later date Disadvantages: - door/top fit problems outlined earlier (if you cheap out and don't get sills) - completely welded together - if you tweak it, you have to live with it So there you have it, everything you ever wanted to know about aluminum tubs (but were afraid to ask) ALMOST. Here's a few details that apply to both styles: Aluminum is MUCH more difficult to paint than steel. A good finish would probably require going to a high-end paint shop (Your local "Oh-Oh, better get a new paint job" place probably couldn't handle it) Aluminum tubs can't really be fixed if they're severly kinked/dented (or at least not as well as a conventional steel sheet metal body. I talked to my insurance agent about mine and she thought that replacing my tub in the event of an accident would be covered under the same heading as aluminum pick-up canopies. Aqualu makes aluminum front fenders, but they were kind of ugly IMHO. Because they could only roll and not stamp the fenders, they couldn't duplicate the compound curves at the front of the fender and just left off the last little curve on the front of the fender. They sold for something like CA$395 a pair Finally, for those of you that don't like aluminum, I have seen a replacement tub made out of 3/16" STEEL! I suspect it would have made the truck into a complete slug, however resistance to small arms fire would be a huge advantage to anyone living in LA/Washington/Detroit :) Breather Relocation - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ------------------------------------------------------ NOTE: It's been a while since I've done this and may have forgotten something, also, this is the last article I typed in for v1.0 so I'm pretty fried. If I say something that seems wrong, it probably is. Anyone who tries these directions, drop me a line and let me know if I missed anything. Depending on what year and model of Cruiser you own, you may have the pop valve axle breathers mounted directly to the axle housing. If you truck ever sees any water off-road (or good flooding on road) this set-up is inadequate. The check valves always become clogged. This either allows water to stream into your axle housing, or worse, does not allowing your axle to breathe which results in blown seals which THEN let water in. For water over bumper height, even Toyota's breather hoses that reach up to the frame height aren't enough. Fortunately, replacing your breathers is both simple and cheap. First you must remove the check valves. Before doing this, ensure the area around the breather is free of mud/grime--you don't want to have any grit falling into the breather hole and wearing your ring and pinion. Once the valves are out, check the threads to determine if they're fine or coarse (all breathers after 1971 are fine thread. Some rear breathers from prior to 71 are coarse. I am not sure if this procedure would work with coarse threads so attempt it at your own risk. Temporarily pop the valves back in and go to your hardware store. You will need 2 1/4" brass right angle NPT to compression fittings, 2 plastic ferrules and hose inserts, 15' of 1/4"OD nylon hose (poly will do in a pinch, a T junction with compression fittings on all sides, a whole whack of small *zip-ties, a 10mm tapping die (same thread as your breathers), some 3/8" washers, 2 M10x1.25 nuts, 3" of 1/4"ID rubber hose (like fuel line), 2 1/4" hose clamps, cutting fluid (oil will do in a pinch), Blue Loctite 242, and (recommended but not required) 15' of corregated wire loom covering that will fit over the pipe. If your axles are the style where the rear breather comes up through the brake line T, you will also need a 1-1/2" length of 3/8" brass pipe (often available as a pre-threaded length) and a fitting for joining the pipe to the right angle fitting. The following procedure applies to situations where the brass pipe and coupler are not required. 1. Re-cut the NPT threads on the angle fittings with a 10mmx1.25 die. If you don't have a die handle, you can always use a wrench, but this increases your chances of cross-threading. Don't forget 1 turn forwards, 1/2 turn back, and use lots of cutting fluid. You may have a couple of threads that are messed up because of interference between the metric and NPT threads, but it should still be strong enough. 2. Coat the threads on the fitting with Blue Loctite 3. Thread a M10x1.25 nut onto the right angle fitting. 4. Thread the right angle fitting into the axle until it won't go any farther (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN -- the brass is nowhere near as strong as steel) 5. Back the fitting off until it's pointing in the direction you want. 6. Tighten the bolt. The following procedure applies to those who bought the brass pipe and coupler 1. Coat the coupler's threads with Blue Loctite. Thread the pipe into one end and the right angle fitting into the other. 2. Re-cut the threads on the pipe as per #1 above. Cut approximately 5/16" of threads. 3. Coat the pipe's threads with Loctite 4. Thread the assembly into the axle. (If tightens pointing in the wrong direction, remove it and try shimming it with a washer so it points in the right direction) Once the angles are in place, you can put on the hose. 1. Remove the compression nut and brass ferrule from the right angle fitting. 2. Plan out the routing of your hose. It is best to have it travel up along the brake lines, that way there is less of a chance of the hose being damaged by branches etc under the truck. A good location for the T is right against the brake line L that is mounted on the frame below the master cylinder. True hard-core types who don't mind the smell of gear oil can route the line that comes off the T through the firewall into the passenger compartment for maximum fording ablility. Otherwise if you're not equipped with a snorkle, plan to send the line up along the fire wall to hood height. Those lucky enough to have snorkels should route the line up the back side of the snorkle. 3. Once you've planned the route, cut the plastic tubing and loom cover to the required lengths. 4. Slide the compression nut and a plastic ferrule onto each end of the hose. 5. Place the hose inserts inside each end of the hose to prevent it from being crushed when you tighten the compression nuts. 6. Slide the hose into the angle fitting, and tighten the compression nut. 7. Route the hose along the frame of the truck and attach the other end to the T. 8. Snap the loom cover over the hose and zip tie it securely to the frame or a brake line along its whole length. 9. Place the compression nut ferrule and hose insert onto one end of the hose that is to be routed up along the firewall/into the passenger compartment/up the snorkle and tighten it down. 10. Thead/stuff the one of the old breather pop valves into the rubber hose and clamp it securely with a hose clamp. 11. Fit the other end of the rubber hose over the top of the plastic tubing and clamp it with the second hose clamp. Now your axles are waterproof (if the seals are good :) Unfortunately, there are still two breathers you must worry about for SERIOUS fording. They are on the transfer case and steering box. Unfortunately, I haven't gotten around to relocating these yet. All that will be required when I do this is splicing two more T's into the plastic tubing. The steering box should require a procedure identical to the one outlined here, but I think the transfer case may have a different sized breather plug and require something more creative. Glow Plugs - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) --------------------------------------------- It is considerably cheaper to buy your glow plugs from somebody other than Toyota. NGK makes 2 models that fit B's, 3B's, and 2H's. The part number for the 24V version is Y197R. The 12V version is not available in North America. In the event that your glow plugs fail far from civilizaton, it is still possible to start your truck (as long as it is not too cold outside) Simply heat a largish pot of water until it is about to come to a rolling boil. Then pour the hot water over the intake manifold and injection nozzles of the truck. The truck should start as if you'd actually used the glow plugs. If the truck still won't start, try several more pots of water to heat the manifold further. Ride Harshness - Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ------------------------------------------------- Short wheel base trucks ride rough and there is not a whole lot that can be done about it. There are a few options to soften the ride though. In order of "Bang-For-The-Buck" they are: 1. AVOID ADD-A-LEAFS! These will make your Cruiser ride like the axles are bolted directly to the frame. 2. Keep lifts as small as possible. The higher up you are, the more pitching motions of the truck are amplified. 3. Use the right shocks. In BC, the preferred shock set up for FJ40's is 70/30 Gas charged shocks (like KYB Gas-A-Just) up front and 50/50 Oil shocks in the rear (Like Rancho RS5000) The B series engines are lighter than the F's so 70/30 shocks in the front give a _VERY_ harsh ride. The preferred set-up for BJ-40's is 50/50 oil shocks at all four corners. This may also be the best set-up for V8 Owners 4. If you have the Rancho 2.5" 7 leaf Lift, you can improve the ride quality by modifying the spring wrappers. Rancho makes the wrappers too tight for proper spring movement. If you pry open the outermost sets of wrappers, the ride will become softer and your articulation will increase by several inches. The remaining three wrappers are sufficient to prevent spring pack shifting. 5. If your truck is lifted, you can soften the ride by removing one of the short leaves. Unfortunately, removing a leaf will also decrease ride height and load capacity. 6. Front shackle reversal Reversing the front shackles allows the axle to pivot up and backwards (away) from obstacles instead of forwards into them. Shackle reversal will also decrease bump steer by keeping the steering linkage geometry constant over obstacles. Reversals that recess the shackle mount into the frame are superior because they do not increase lift, and the fixed front mounts are not as likely to become "boulder finders" However, they may also create shackle movement problems. 7. Polyurethane Bushings/Greasable Shackles Adding polyurethane bushings will not soften the ride but will improve handling by preventing the springs from twisting relative to the mounts. Polyurethane is also required for greasable shackles because dino-based grease will break down rubber bushings quickly. Using after-market shackles will further improve handling by resisting shackle twisting, while greasable pins allow the springs to move more freely to absorb bumps. Steering Wandering-Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) --------------------------------------------------- There are four basic components in the 40 series steering system that can wear out/go out of adjustment and cause steering slop/wandering. They are the tie rod ends, drag link end, centre arm, and steering box. A small amount of play in each of the tie rod edns can add up to a huge amount of steering slop. The only way tie rods should be able to be moved by hand is to rotate slightly on an axis that runs through the ball joints at each end of the rod. Even this motion should feel "snug." If the tie rod can be moved in any other direction the ball joints are probably worn and should be replaced. The drag link connects to the pitman arm that comes off the steering box. If the link can be moved in a fore-aft motion without the pitman arm moving, the end is out of adjustment. The adjustment procedure is fairly simple. Remove the cotter pin, and with a very large slot screwdriver tighten the end plug as far as you can, then back it out 1/2 turn. Finally, put in a new cotter pin. The centre arm probably accounts for most 40 series steering problems. It is located on the drivers side in front of the front frame crossmember. To test if your centre arm is worn or needs adjustment, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you stand in front of your truck. The centre arm shaft should only rotate about a vertical axis and not twist side-side. If the shaft twists, it may only be out of adjustment. To adjust it, loosen the lock bolt on top of the centre arm. Next remove the top cap. Check inside the arm for grease. If there is none, chances are you centre arm is scrap, but it's worth packing it and re-testing it anyways before you blow $100 on a re-build kit. Once you've filled the housing with grease, replace the top cap. Tighten it down as far as you can then back it of 1/4 turn. Then tighten the locking bolt. Finally, repeat the steering wheel turn test. If the shaft still twists, you need a re-build. The 40 series manual steering box will only fail to outlive you if one of two things happen: it's run without oil, or its not adjusted periodically. The only way for the oil to get out is if the sector shaft seal fails. Should this happen, you can get by by packing the housing with grease until you have time to replace the seal. Adjustment of the steering box should only be attempted after reading the Toyota Steering or Body/Chassis manual. If you are running larger than stock tires, you will need a larger than stock steering dampener to stop wandering. IMHO, the Old Man Emu stabilizer is the way to go. It is a VERY sturdy bolt-in replacement for the stock stabilizer. The other alternative is to get something like the Rancho kit or Heckthorn "Big Yellow" which require adding brackets to the axle and tie rod. I believe the OME unit is superior because it puts the stabilizer higher up where it is less likely to be smacked by rocks or submerged in water, it doesn't introduce any strange off-axis forces in the tie rods and it doesn't require the cheezy clamp-on brackets. Steering can also be improved by using polyurethane bushings/aftermarket shackles as detailed in the section on Ride Harshness. Transmission and Transfer Removal Tips-Rob Mullen (RAMullen@wimsey.com) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The transmission and transfer case should be removed as a unit, even if you only need to remove the transfer case. The transmission will separate easily from the bellhousing whereas separating the transfer case from the transmission usually requires a puller. Removing the transmission also allows you to inspect the clutch and pilot bearing. Save your old large-eye rubber spring bushings. They are great for removing the shifter from your manual transmission. Instead of using two screwdrivers to push and twist (and scratch) the shift lever cap, use the bushing. First, remove the ball at the end of the shifter. Slide the bushing (narrow end down) to the base of the shifter. Then slide a 19mm or larger box end wrench (or the end of a large crescent wrench) down the shifter. Clamp a set of Vise-Grips on to the bushing tight enough to twist it, but not so tight as to clamp it to the shifter. Then while pushing down HARD on the box-end wrench, twist the Vise-Grips clockwise. The shift lever cap should pop right off. The pilot bearing should be replaced every time you remove the transmission as it is an inexpensive part that can cause major headaches if it fails. The easiest way to remove the pilot bearing is with the Toyota puller (SST# 09303-55010 F&HJ, SST# 09303-35010 BJ) Sometimes the bearing is so tightly wedged into the crankshaft that more drastic measures are required. If the bearing cannot be budged with the puller, the next easiest method is to cut it out. To prepare for this, you must first remove the inner race and ball bearings. To remove the inner race, knock out the black ball bearing cover with a screw driver. Next, poke out the bearing cage. Removal of the cage will allow you to move all the ball bearings to one side of the race. The inner race should then pop out easily. After you fish out all the ball bearings, you are ready to begin cutting the outer race. For this, you will need a Dremel tool and some cut-off disks. The 1-1/4" discs are too large and will need to be worn down to 1" or smaller for this to work. To wear the disk down, find a piece of scrap steel and cut it. Pressing too hard will quickly wear the disk down. Once the disk is small enough, you can begin to cut the race, You will need to make two cuts, 90 degrees to each other. If the disk is 1" in diamater, you will be able to make two cuts 180 degrees to each other at the same time. Keep a close eye on your cutting to ensure you do not cut cut the crank shaft. Don't worry abou making a small nick or two in the race seat. It will not cause serious problems. Once you have made 2 (or 4) cuts in the outer race, pry it out with a screw driver. You should place something to pry against on the flywheel in the recessed area that does not contact the clutch (Don't scratch the face that contacts the clutch!) A piece of steel similar to a pre-'81 shackle works well for this. If you're blessed with a newer Cruiser, a piece of 1/2"x3"x1" steel channel (fig A) (or something similar) will also do. __________ /___3_____/| 1/2| | | | |/ |/ <--- 1" fig A Be sure to wear eye protection as the race will only give a little warning (some visible twisting) before flying out. Putting the tranny back in is a tiresome process. An engine hoist is essential if you want to preserve your sanity. Jacking the tranny/transfer assmebly from below is virtually impossible. You should buy 3 M12x60x1.25 or so bolts to help you allign the transmission. Manouver the tranny into position so that the input shaft is through the throw-out bearing and at least one of the tranny-bellhousing holes is alligned (the lower passenger side one is a good place to start) Thread one of the longer M12 bolts through the tranny and into the bellhousing (be sure there's alot of thread going into the bellhousing so it won't tear out if it has to take some of the tranny's weight. Next, rotate the tranny about the bolt until another hole is alligned. Pop in another of your M12 bolts in. You may have to level the tranny a little before you can get the last bolt in. (Put it on the passenger's side--it's easier to remove) You should then be able to walk the tranny along the bolts until its right up snug with the bellhousing. It may take a little push to close the final 1/4" gap. If there is resistance before this point, chances are the tranny's input shaft is not going through the pilot bearing properly. BE CAREFUL. If you crush the pilot bearing, you'll have to repeat the whole removal/installation process! Once the tranny is in position, put one of the stock length bolts into the driver's side top hole. Finally, remove the allignment bolts one by one and install the stock bolts. V8J40 Cooling Tips - Fred Welland (fwelland@prcrs.prc.com) ----------------------------------------------------------- CONTRIBUTORS ENGINE FAN RAD USUAL TEMP Fred Welland 350 (400) 7 BLADE AIRCO 2F 190-230 Karl Klashinsky 350 Electric 5/6 CORE 200-210 Mike Bennett 350 5-CORE X-FLO 200-210 Mike Sousa 350 7 BLADE CADDY 4-CORE 185-200 TEMPERATURE RANGES The ideal maximum temperature for a SB Chevy in a Land Cruiser is 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The maximum allowable is probably in the 230-240 range. FAN TYPES Flex fans are generally regarded as the poorest type for extreme cooling. Clutch fans are the next worst Electrical fans are the next. They have two advantages: the ablility to be manually shut off during water crossings to prevent splashing, and greater fuel economy. However, a single electrical fan does not move enough air--a dual fan push-pull arrangement may be better though. It is generally agreed that some type of fixed pitch fan with many deep blades is the best. It will move the greatest amount of air, however, it will provide your truck with DC-3 on takeoff roll sound-effects and will function as an excellent screw in water crossings. Some sources of thes monster props are air conditioning suppliers and Cadillacs. WATER PUMPS & HOSES A high flow water pump can be good for as much as a 10 degree temperature drop. For extreme temperature duty, molded hoses tend to be more rupture-resistant than flexible ones. TEMPERATURE SENDER PLACEMENT In most cases, the sender is located on the side of the block between cylinders 1 and 2. LOWERING STOCK RADIATOR Piece of cake. I hoped I could just slide the radiator down in the u-shaped channel and drill some new holes. Nope, I couldn't get the radiator down enough: you might be able to. If not, take out the radiator and u-shaped mount. The radiator mounts to the u-shaped mount and the u-shaped mount sits on two brackets extending back from the front crossmember. Figure out where you want the radiator to sit (fore and aft) and then cut off enough of the existing brackets so the radiator and mount will move straight down. Figure out how low you want the radiator to sit and then weld two pieces of angle iron to the ends of the brackets to make a new lower shelf for the u-shaped mount to sit on. old mount: |__________ new mount: |______ |__________| |______| | | |___ When I got my radiator low enough, the corner of my u-shaped mount wanted to occupy the same space as my steering column shaft. I chopped a section out of the u-shaped mount for clearance around the steering shaft and just reinforced the inside of the mount with another small piece of steel. Looks funny, but it works. Bend, cut, weld, or something so you can reattach the side braces and your down the road! FAN SHROUDS Some claim that a fan shoud makes all the differnce in the world, however some there are also those that say installing a shroud had no effect. OIL COOLERS Adding an oil cooler should make a difference in your engine temperature because theoretically you now have two paths for heat to leave the engine. Adding an oil cooler has the advantage of increasing your oil capacity (although it will cost you more for an oil change) COOLANT ADDITIVES > Water Wetter is available from any Super Shops. It's $6.95/bottle. If they > don't have it in stock they will order it for you. Water Wetter is made by Redline. You can order it directly from them at 1-800-624-7958 if you can't find it locally. However, it may be subject to a minimum order. It works. Land Cruiser Clubs ================== North America ------------- Toyota Land Cruiser Association (TLCA) PO Box 607 Placerville, CA 95667-0607 Kara Patston (Membership): KPatston@aol.com Gary Bjork (Toyota Trails Editor): TLCAEditor@aol.com Membership Services:1(800)397-3260 24hr voice/fax Chapters: This information (esp. Contacts and Phone #'s) may change fairly regularly, contact TLCA for more info. Basin & Range Cruisers 1639 East 4500 South Salt Lake City, UT 84124 Contact: Jack Christensen (801)277-6629 Beach'N'Toys 405 S Rose St. Escondido, CA 92027 Contact: Brad Phillips (619)747-1822 Capital Land Cruiser Club 45655C Woodland Rd. Sterling, VA 20166 Contact: James Asti (703)404-8115 Cascade Cruisers 10045 S. Marquam Circle Molalla, OR 97038 Contact: Peter Poling (503)642-9164 Coastal Cruisers 2360 Douglas Road Burnaby, B.C. Canada V5C 5B2 Contact: Dave Romaniuk (604)299-5600 E-contact: Rob Mullen RAMullen@wimsey.com Gold Coast Cruisers 761 Coronado Pl. Oxnard, CA 93030 Contact: Lary Moczulski (805)984-3309 Georgia Cruisers PO Box 467691 Atlanta, GA 31146 Contact: Steve Clevenger (404)446-9115 High-N-Dry Four Wheelers 9432 E. Ave. T-10 Littlerock, CA 93543 Contact: Mike Greear (805)944-3881 Keystone Cruisers, TLCA of PA 1063 E. Caracas Hershey, PA 17033 Contact: Ken Johannsen KJohannsen@aol.com Massachusetts Coastal Transit Authority 3 Federal St. Newburyport, MA 01950 Contact: Tedd Brown (508)465-6021 Mid-Ohio Land Cruisers 1791 E. Orange Rd. Lewis Center, OH 43035 Contact: Bill Scott (614)548-6214 Mountain Transit Authority PO Box 54024 San Jose, CA 95154 Contact: Bill Youngman (408)629-0949 billfj4045@aol.com Nor-Cal Marauders 13880 Noble Way Red Bluff, CA 96080 Contact: Jim Bosman (916)527-4129 Rising Sun 4 Wheel Drive Club of Colorado 4125 S. Lisbon Way Aurora, CO 80013 Contact: Chris Hatfield (303)680-1292 Toy4x4s@aol.com Southeast Land Cruiser Association 208 Reidhurst Ave. Nashville, TN 37203 Contact: Rainey Kirk (615)320-0129 Southern Nevada Land Cruisers PO Box 28004 Las Vegas, NV 89126 Contact: David Hawkins (702)452-8471 So. Cal. TLCA PO Box 1291 Sunset Beach, CA 90742 Contact: Ed Bailey (714)841-9944 Totally Landcruisers of New Jersey PO Box 114 Eatontown, NJ 07724 Contact: Al Kaplan (908)458-3413 TLCA Los Angeles County 1849 Lucretia Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90026 Contact: Bill Ferguson (213)250-4179 TLCA Ventura County (founding chapter) PO Box 367 Ventura, CA 93002 Contact: Michelle Bolton (805)647-5263 Toyotally Awesome Cruisers of Auburn PO Box 5482 Auburn, CA 95604 Contact: Marty Patton (916)268-9312 E-Contact: Jeff Hassi JHassi@aol.com Toys 4 Fun PO Box 4086 Fresno, CA 93744 Contact: Chuck Parks (209)432-9468 Toys on the Rocks PO Box 546 Placerville, CA 95667 Contact: Jerry Schroeder (916)642-0303 Virginia Land Cruiser Association 205 Bayview Dr. Yorktown, VA 23692 Contact: Bill Baxter (804)877-9136 Washington Timber Toys PO Box 2963 Woodinville, WA 98072-2963 Contact: Gordon Quehrn (206)483-3531 Windy City Land Cruisers 4741 Montgomery Ave. Downers Grove, IL 60515 Contact: Jim Today (708)968-7820 Australia --------- Toyota Landcruiser Club of Australia (Victoria) Inc. PO Box 363 Hawthorn, Vic 3122 Toyota Landcruiser Club of Australia (SA) Inc. PO Box 55 Oaklands Park, SA 5046 Toyota LandCruiser Club of Queensland Inc. PO Box 309 Wooloongabba, Qld 4102 Toyota Landcruiser Club of Vic, Geelong Branch PO Box 515 Geelong, Vic 3220 Toyota LandCruiser Club (NSW) PO Box 2 Bankstown, NSW 2200 Netherlands ----------- Toyota Landcruiser Club The Netherlands c/o Jos Coppes Albionstraat 12 5809 AD Leunen the Netherlands phone: 0478-512935 (day) and: 0478-583290 (evenings) Parts Suppliers =============== Legend N New Parts U Used Parts C Catalog Available S Service or Custom Work V Complete Vehicles * Specialty Products North America ------------- Advance Adapters, Inc. N,C Engine/Transmission/TC Adapters PO Box 247 Paso Robles, CA 93447 (805)238-7000 FAX (805)238-4201 Advanced Four Wheel Drive Systems S 1102 South 200 West Salt Lake City, UT 84101 (801)521-2334 FAX (801)521-2335 All American Enterprises 4x4 4830 N. Hwy 97 Klamath Falls, OR 97601 (541)882-5313 Aqualu Industries 3251-A Sexsmith Road Kelowna, BC Canada (604) 765-6714 FAX (604)765-6704 ARB-U.S.A.* Air Lockers, ARB bumpers, 1425 Elliott Ave. W Old Man Emu Springs, Shackles Seattle, WA 98119 (206)284-5906 FAX (206)284-6171 arbusa@halcyon.com Brown's Toyota City N New parts at wholesale 7167 Ritchie Hwy. Glen Burnie, MD 21061 1-800-848-4451 BTB Products N,U,M,S Adv. Adapters, PS Conv, Compressors 825 Civic Center Dr. #8 Springs, Disc Conv, Cages, Tire Racks Santa Clara, CA 95050 (408)984-5444 FAX (408)984-0155 btbprod@btbprod.com http://www.btbprod.com/Home.html Clifford Performance N,C 6-1 Headers, camshafts, EFI kits 2330 Pomona-Rincon Rd. Corona, CA 91720 (714)734-3310 (714)734-3405 Colorado Toyota Specialists 26366 Sutton Rd. Conifer, CO 80433 (303)838-4772 Con-Ferr N,C Bumpers, Skid Plates, Shackles, Diff 123 South Front St., Dept. FW0495 Skids, Roof Racks, Storage Boxes Burbank, CA 91502-1983 (213)849-1800, (818)848-2025,2330,6993 FAX(818)848-1011 "Cool Cruisers" of Texas V,N Sells Restored Land Cruisers, Body 101 - 5101 Grisham Drive Panels, Bolt-on Air Conditioning Rowlett (Dallas Suburb), TX 75243 **NO CATALOGS OR OTHER PARTS (214)707-8993 FAX (214)303-0619 AVAILABLE** http://www.netsmith.com/cool/ Cruiser Parts 2852 NW Highland Ave. Grants Pass, OR 97526 (503)476-2361 Downey Off-Road Manufacturing N,C,M Tanks, Bumpers, Cams, Adapters, 10001 S. Pioneer Blvd. Clutches, Dietributors, Tops, Diffs Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (213)949-9494 FAX (213)949-5718 FabTech Manufacturing & Off Road, Inc. N,U,S,C 14ga Steel Tubs, Fenders, PS #9 - 150 Campion Rd. Conversions, Restored LC's, Kelowna, B.C. Shackle Reversal Canada V1V 1L9 (604)765-0019 FAX (604)765-1419 Front Range Cruisers N,U Buy/Sell/Trade 2406 North Logan Ave. Colorado Springs, CO. 80907 (719)633-8178 FAX (719)475-7609 Hadley Industries U,V,N,S,D 4785 Pratt Metamora, MI 48455 (810)797-4120 Interior Auto Wrecking U, V Used FJ/BJ/HJ Parts 3101 45th Ave. Vernon, B.C. Canada V1T 3N7 (604)545-2104 FAX (604)542-3335 James Toyota 172 Route 202 Flemington, NJ 08822 (908)788-5700 FAX (908)788-7887 Jim's Fuel Injection Service N Diesel injector service, 112-1083 East Kent Ave. Diesel fuel pump parts Vancouver, B.C. Bolt on turbo kits V5X 4V? (604)324-1715 K & L Engineering* 6355 Smith Ave. Mira Loma, CA 91725 (714)735-4182 Land Cruiser Advanced Handling N,S Suspension Correction (Shackle 1029 S.E.24th Reversal), Springs, Spring Over Albany, OR 97321 Conversion (503)926-8122 Land Cruiser Recycling N,U,V PO Box 11727 Blacksburg, VA 24060-1727 (703)961-2053 Land Cruiser Solutions Al Tubs, Grilles, Tailgates, Fenders, 3 Federal Street Running Boards Newburyport, MA 01950, (508) 462-5656 Land Cruisers Unlimited U,N,S Steel 1/2 Doors, Tail Lights, Tire E. 7555 Ohio Match Road Carriers, FR/RR Discs, Bumpers Rathdrun, ID 83858 (208)687-2607 Laughing Horse Design 12205 Lockey Lane Ste 12 Auburn, CA 95602 (916)888-8200 Lou Fusz Toyota N,C New Toyota Parts, Accessories, & 10725 Mancheser St. Performance Parts St Louis, MO, 63122 1-800-325-9581(CA/US) (314)-966-5404 FUSZTOYOTA@aol.com Malotte Manufacturing Co., Inc. N,C Fibreglass tubs, tops, fenders PO Box 305 Lincoln, CA 95648 (916)645-8111 Man-A-Fre N,U,M,C 6-1 Headers, Carbs, Toyota Parts, 5076 Chesebro Rd. Rebuilt Parts, Lights, Springs, Agoura, CA 91301 Shocks, LSD's, Old Man Emu, ARB, (818)991-6689 FAX (818)991-7105 Con-Ferr Advance Adapters sysmgr@man-a-fre.com http://www.man-a-fre.com/ Mark's Off Road Enterprises N,U,D,S,M 437 N. Moss Street Burbank, CA 90501 (818)953-9230 FAX (818)953-7225 Marlins Auto & Truck Repair S Marlin Crawlers? 1543-B N. Maple Fresno, CA 93703 (209)252-1584 Nairobi Outfitters Extreme duty grillguards/winchmounts PO Box 1211 Expedition quality vehicle Goleta, Ca 93117 modifications/fabrication, tech support (805)682-7933 National Spring N Custom springs/lift kits Dept. OR 1402 N. Magnolia Ave. El Cajon, CA 92020 (619)441-1901 Northwest Off-Road Specialties N,C,F 80 Series Accessories ONLY 1999 Iowa St. Bellingham, WA 98226 (206)676-1200 FAX (206) 676-5401 Olympic Off Road N,U,S,V,D 3735 S Pine Suite E Tacoma, WA 98409 (206)473-5797 Ozone Off-Road, Inc. N,U,S,C,V Performance items, fibreglass bodies, 86 Freeman's Bridge Rd. V8 conv., suspension, frame mounted Glenville, NY 12302 roll bars/cages (518)346-8849 PowerTrax/Lock Right* 245 Fischer Ave. B-4 Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (800)562-5377 FAX (714)545-5425 Ramsey Winch Co.* Winches?! :) PO Box 581510 Tulsa, OK 74158 (918)438-2760 FAX (918)438-6688 Renegade Fabrication Service or Custom Work, Specialty 18447 N. 33rd Avenue Products Phoenix, AZ, U.S.A. 85023-1050 (602) 938-3185 R&M Specialty Products* Onboard hot-water showers PO Box 1683 Windsor, CA 95492 (707)838-3869 Rocky Mountain Offroad Specialties 365 Bonny Street, Suite A Grand Junction, CO, U.S.A. 81503 (800) 524-6005 Specter Off-Road, Inc. N,U,M,C New/Used Toyota USA/NON USA Parts 21600 Nordhoff St. 3-2-1 Headers, Conn-Ferr Chatsworth, CA 91311 (818)882-1238 FAX (818)882-7144 http://www.sor.com/ Stevens Creek Toyota, Inc. N,S,V 4425 Stevens Creek Blvd. Santa Clara, CA 95050-7395 (408)984-1234 FAX (408)246-8028 TLC Mechanix Owner: Adrian McGlaughlin N,U,S,V Power steering, disc brakes, 122 S. Lillie Lane V8 conversions, suspensions, custom Fayetteville, AR 72701 fabrication. 501-582-4TLC (4852) TLC Offroad N,U,S New/Used Parts, ARB/OME, 24V bulbs, 2360 Douglas Rd. Nippondenso glow plugs Burnaby, BC Canada V5C 5B2 (604)299-5600 RAMullen@wimsey.com Toyotas "R" Us U,S 7730 CR 150 Salida, CO 81201 (719)539-7733 Truck Sales Co. Off-Road Center N,U,M,S,V 2211 Dickerson Road Nashville, TN 37207 (615)262-5850 Toyota Racing Development (TRD) 18240 South Western Avenue Gardena, California 90248 (310)532-1232 Warden's Auto Repair N,U,S,V SM420-3 SPD TC adapter kits 640 Main St. Bullet Proof CNC Milled Transfer Placerville, CA 95667 Cases (916)622-9242 FAX(909) 338-6709 W.E. For Wheel N,U PO Box 601 Crestline, CA 92325 (909)338-5120 FAX (989)338-6709 Australia --------- Don Kyatt 4WD Parts & Accessories N,S Direct importer of spare parts, 172 Roden St. ARB Stockists West Melbourne Vic 3003 (03)329-8200 177 Chesterville Rd. Moorabbin, Vic 3189 (03)555-0455 108 Regency Rd. Ferryden Park SA 5010 (08)243-1966 Lean & Bennett New Toyota parts 307 Main St Lithgow NSW 2790 063-522211 FAX 063-523009 toyota@sydney.dialix.oz.au Leo's Cruisers Early FJ40's and FJ55's, fibreglass body 2 Panamuna Ave panels Taylors Lakes Victoria Australia, 3038. 613 93902670 CELL 613 15 329433 Mark's Adapters 22 Sinclair Road Dandenong, Victoria Australia, 3175 (03) 9793 3388 (03) 9706 8148 marks4wd@ozemail.com.au http://www.ozemail.com.au/~marks4wd/